Saturday, August 1, 2009

Sense and Sensibility

Well, on Wednesday I reluctantly bid farewell to Hawarden and hopped the train for Winchester. I must say, I prefer the Welsh landscape to the English, at least the part of England that particular train ride took me through-- not as inspiring as the lush green fields and hills of Wales.
Winchester, however, is a cute little town and my hotel was right next to the Cathedral. In fact, I could look out my window and see the north side of the church. Evidently Wednesday night is bell ringing practice so I was treated to a concert for about 2 hours. I arrived too late on Wednesday afternoon to actually go into the cathedral so instead I walked around the pedestrian shopping area for a bit before retiring to my room for an early start on Thursday morning.

Daniel and Eddie were picking me up in Winchester on Thursday so I got up early, packed, had breakfast (ahhh-- yogurt and fruit how I'd missed you after the carbs only selection of toast, cereal or porridge at St. Deiniol's) and then went to wander in the cathedral. It's a Norman rather than Gothic cathedral and I must say I think my preference is shifting to that simplicity of architecture. Inside it is quite grand. I only really had time to look around the nave but took note of many of the details-- the medieval floor tiles, the carvings on the pews in some of the side chapels, the corbel carvings, etc. Based on personal experience of watching visitors to Washington National Cathedral for the past almost 8 years, I've noticed many people focus so much on the big, grand and obvious that they miss the small, simple and subtle expressions of iconography but that's what I've found myself focusing on in recent weeks. Hmmm-- have to think about that some more and figure out what lesson there is to be learned there.

After paying homage to Jane Austen's grave, I wandered around the cathedral close until I got the text message that Daniel and Eddie had arrived. We hit up Starbucks to get them caffeinated and then I checked out of the hotel and we got in the car to head towards Petersfield. I did make a brief stop on the way to the car to run into St. Swithun's Chapel, which is a tiny chapel built into the gate that was the original entrance to the grounds of the cathedral close. Winchester Cathedral was originally a Benedictine abbey and the thought is that St. Swithun's was a chapel for the lay workers in the abbey. It was quite lovely-- a place I'd visit often if I lived in Winchester.

On our way to Petersfield, we made a brief stop at another Austen pilgrimage destination, her house and museum in Chawton. There were two places Jane really considered home, the rectory in which she grew up that burned down in the 1820's and the house in Hampshire given to her and Cassandra and her mother by her brother, where she lived for the last 8 years of her life and revised her earlier works and wrote her later novels. The house contains Austen memorabilia, my favorite bit being the little table where she'd write each morning.

From Chawton we headed to Andy and Jo's to pop in and say hello. The bride to be was off getting her nails done when we arrived but the entire family was there. Lucy, Andy and Jo's 19 month old daughter, was toddling around being quite entertaining. In addition to being adorable-- big blue eyes and white blond curls-- she's also incredibly smart and verbal. If you didn't know better, you'd swear she was going on 3 instead of 2.

The wedding party had rehearsal at 3 pm so we hit the road to go check in at our respective inns in Buriton, 2 1/2 miles away. I got settled and was just getting ready for a quick nap when Eddie texted to say their inn was closed until 5:30 so the boys came back and hung out in the pub with me until they could get checked in . . . that should have been a warning sign about how they'd find the Five Bells . . .from the rooms smelling like cigarette smoke to non-working showers, it was just one fiasco after another but unfortunately there wasn't another place for them to stay. They finally were able to nap and then shower in Andy and Nick's (the best man's) room after which we all, in addition to our friend Nicholas who had arrived earlier from London for the wedding, had a dinner that was remarkable for the conversation and unremarkable for the food, also at the Five Bells (note to chefs: risotto isn't just the Italian word for rice-- it's a method of cooking that isn't supposed to resemble Uncle Ben's in any way, shape, or form). Nicholas and I followed up dinner with a drink at the Master Robert, where we were both staying.
We were up by 8:30 am the next morning for breakfast and while Andy and Nick walked down the road to meet us, Daniel and Eddie stayed in bed. They were finally up and moving by 10ish so we piled in the car to head for a nearby National Trust property with the intention of wandering around the gardens and having lunch in their cafe. Unfortunately, it was closed when we arrived as was the other nearby National Trust house we checked out on the web so instead we drove back to Petersfield where we had lunch in a cafe and then had to race back to get ready for the wedding.

The wedding itself was lovely as was the reception. Jo looked gorgeous, Andy was beaming, and everyone was having a wonderful time. I skipped out of the reception about 10ish as I was on people overload and came back and had a nice long bubble bath and read my Marie Claire before climbing into bed. This morning I need to finish packing up and we head to London at some point-- waiting for a PING from the boys. I'm looking forward to dinner tonight at the Cinnamon Club-- an Indian restaurant in an old library-- definitely my type of place!

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