Well, it's been over a week since I've last posted and obviously I've left Beirut . . . and Berlin and Munich. Today is our last full day in Prague-- tomorrow morning I head home where I plan to stay put, at least for a month or so.
I finished my last day in Lebanon with a trip to Jaita Grotto outside of Beirut which are amazing caverns that are one of the nominees for the new seven wonders of the world and I can see why after visiting. Unfortunately we weren't allowed to take pictures in either the upper caverns, which we walked through, or the lower caverns through which we took a little boat ride but they were spectacular. They haven't done any of the cheesy lighting like I vaguely remember from Luray although they could have done with a few more explanatory signs but no doubt that will come if they make the final wonders cut. On our way back to the hotel to pack, we stopped in Harrisa for some beautiful views of Beirut and Jounieh. At 10 pm it was time to bid farewell to the middle east and we boarded our Middle East airlines flight for Berlin, arriving at about 1:30 am. Needless to say, my first impressions of Berlin were very dark because I couldn't see a thing.
After an all too brief sleep, we got up and wandered around a little bit, heading for the Dome, walking around museum island and stopping for lunch in a cafe. The rest of the crowd arrived that afternoon and we all headed out for a boat tour down the Spree which was a lovely way to see Berlin. Day two was spent on one of those open top bus tours that went around the city. Unfortunately we only got about half of the tour done that day as we got off at Charlottenburg Palace, which was well worth the stop. Located in what used to be a separate city from Berlin, it is now one of the Berlin neighborhoods and the gardens of the palace are open to the public for free so there were plenty of people just hanging out and wandering. We opted for a tour of the house as well, which was amazing-- in particular the porcelain room. The palace was originally the summer home of Sophie Charlotte, wife of Frederick III. Sophie was a great porcelain collector and there is one room that was designed just to showcase her collection-- thousands and thousands of pieces arranged on the walls and corner shelves according to size and function. Unfortunately poor Sophie died before the room was completed so she never got to see her collection displayed in all it's glory. And unfortunately we weren't able to take photos inside the schloss so you won't be able to see it either unless you find an image on line or visit there someday.We lunched near the palace and then took the bus to the Check Point Charlie stop where we got off and walked to our hotel which was 6 or 7 blocks away. For some place that was so notorious in the past, Check Point Charlie has none of the intrigue and danger that it had fifteen years ago. Gobs of tourists mob the streets and locals dressed in US Military replica uniforms encourage visitors to get a picture taken with them for a small fee. Needless to say we didn't linger. Plus, we had an appointment that evening for a special tour of what we thought was just going to be the Reichstag but ended up being all the government buildings that we'd admired, albeit from the outside, on our boat ride the evening before. A friend of a friend works for one of the members of the Bundestag and met us for a special behind the scenes tour of the very modern buildings that make up the government offices of Germany. We went into the library, saw Helmut Kohl's office (all former chancellors are offered an office from which to continue working), went into committee rooms and caucus rooms and even crashed a hearing on the Libson Treaty (although they were on break and we ducked out quickly after Jenz said, "Hmmm-- I don't think we should be here."). Berlin has a lot of incredible modern architecture and it was interesting to see how some of the Bauhaus form meets function influence appears in the contemporary buildings that, although not in the style of Bauhaus, still evoke that feeling.
The next morning we continued on our bus tour getting on at Check Point Charlie and off at Museum Island where we went into the Dome and then the Pergamon followed by lunch at a cafe by the Spree. I'd heard rave reviews about the Pergamon from my brother among others and while it was impressive I think if I hadn't been to Baalbek earlier on this trip and if it hadn't been 90 degrees in the museum I would have enjoyed it better. The Babylonia gate, however, was incredible. It alone was worth the admission price so I don't feel too guilty about racing through and then sitting outside with a Berlinerweisser waiting for the others to emerge.
After lunch everyone headed back to the hotel while I hopped on the bus yet again, hoping to head back to Check Point Charlie where I planned on then walking to the Marion Gropius House to see an exhibit on the 90th anniversary of Bauhaus. As it turned out, the tour buses stop running at 6 pm so I had to get off in front of KDV, the enormous Berlin department store that had been the symbol of Western abundance during the Cold War. And I must say, after spending about 45 minutes wandering solely around the sixth floor food hall I would have risked going across the wall for that. It was amazing-- like Harrod's on steroids. I refrained from buying much other than a few gummy bears to share later and hopped in a cab where I arrived at the Bauhaus exhibit with just an hour to spend there so it was a race through but well worth it as the exhibit featured not only images of the architecture but also examples of the artwork, design, etc. that came out of the school.
The next morning we headed out for the long drive from Berlin to Munich, stopping along the way in Wittenburg and Leipzig. Wittenburg is an adorable little town and we spent more time than planned there, just wandering around and going in the churches. In Leipzig we were searching for Bach's house, which we finally found after driving around for a while, only to discover it is under construction and the exhibits have been condensed into one little room that was underwhelming. After zooming down the autobahn, we arrived in Munich and checked into our hotel and collapsed into bed.
A word about Munich-- I'm sure it's a lovely city; however, as they say, first impressions are everything. We were staying near the train station-- a convenient location I guess but not exactly the loveliest part of town with the run down stores, kebab shops, seedy bars, and dingy streets. And I spent my first morning doing laundry, which did nothing to enhance my perception of Berlin. Later in the afternoon I wandered down to Marionplatz which was packed with Saturday shoppers. Sunday it was the glochenspiel show followed by coffee at a cafe after which half of the group went off to do a city tour and three of us headed for the Englischer Gardens where we wandered and then had lunch in one of the beer gartens. I must say, other than Eddie's birthday dinner, which was Sunday night, I also wasn't impressed by the food in Munich either. I guess I'm more of a Berlin girl despite speaking German with a southern accent (people in Berlin couldn't understand me at first with the American southern German accent while in Munich no one had a problem-- didn't realize how much I picked up from my Bavarian college German teacher!).
Eddie's birthday dinner, which was the whole reason that 20 of us were gathered in Munich, was incredible-- great food, wonderful wine, delightful conversation and, thanks to my brilliant idea at lunch earlier in the day to do a seating chart, no drama (which hadn't been the case in the previous days and hours leading up to the dinner).
Monday we left Berlin and headed for Prague where today we wrap up our time here. I really could have spent a lot more time in both Berlin and Prague as they are both gorgeous cities I'd like to explore more. On Tuesday we did a bus/walking tour of the highlights of Prague and then wandered a bit and yesterday I struck out on my own and walked a ton as Prague is a great walking city. I went from our hotel to the Municipal House where I took a tour and fell in love. It is a great example of art nouveau/cessionist architecture and design, which I adore. I may even go back today with George as he's never done the tour before. After the tour I had coffee and cake at the cafe and then headed over to the old square and then to walk along the river, where I took a little boat ride. Unfortunately my camera battery had died so instead of walking across Charles Bridge and visiting St. Nicholas, which had been my plan, I just ended up walking back to the hotel.
Today more wandering and tonight, perhaps one of the many classical concerts Prague has to offer. So that's my last week in brief. I'll post a lot of pictures to fill in the gaps as I'm tired of writing, my lap top is running out of juice, and I'm in desperate need of coffee before I get started this morning.